American Express-- American Express Travel Services is represented in Costa Rica by ASV Olympia, Oficentro La Sabana, Sabana Sur, in San José (tel. 242-8585), which can issue traveler's checks and replacement cards and provide other standard services. To report lost or stolen Amex traveler's checks within Costa Rica, call the number above or tel. 257-0155.
Area Codes-- There are no area codes in Costa Rica. All local phone numbers are seven-digit numbers. However, toll-free numbers are inconsistent. Some begin with 800, others with 0800. Moreover, some actually have eight digits following the 800 or 0800.
Business Hours-- Banks are usually open Monday through Friday from 9am to 4pm, although many have begun to offer extended hours. Offices are open Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm (many close for 1 hr. at lunch). Stores are generally open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 6pm (many close for 1 hr. at lunch). Stores in modern malls generally stay open until 8 or 9pm and don't close for lunch. Most bars are open until 1 or 2am.
Cameras & Film-- Most types of film are available, as are developing services. However, prices are higher than in the United States, so bring plenty of film with you and wait until you get home for processing.
Drug Laws-- Drug laws in Costa Rica are strict, so stay away from marijuana and cocaine. Many prescription drugs are sold over the counter here, but often the names are different from those in the United States and Europe. It's always best to have a prescription from a doctor.
Drugstores-- Called farmacias in Spanish, drugstores are quite common throughout the country. Those at hospitals and major clinics are often open 24 hours a day.
Electricity-- The standard in Costa Rica is the same as in the United States: 110 volts AC (60 cycles). However, three-pronged outlets can be scarce, so it's helpful to bring along an adapter.
Embassies & Consulates-- The following embassies and consulates are located in San José: United States Embassy, in front of Centro Commercial, on the road to Pavas (tel. 519-2000, or 220-3127 after hours in case of emergency); Canadian Consulate, Oficentro Ejecutivo La Sabana, Edificio 5 (tel. 242-4400); and British Embassy, Paseo Colón between calles 38 and 40 (tel. 258-2025). There are no Australian or New Zealand embassies in San José.
Emergencies-- In case of any emergency, dial tel. 911 (which should have an English-speaking operator); for an ambulance, call tel. 128; and to report a fire, call tel. 118. If 911 doesn't work, you can contact the police at tel. 222-1365 or 221-5337, and hopefully they can find someone who speaks English.
Internet Access-- Internet cafes can be found all over San José and at most major tourist destinations in Costa Rica. Rates run between $1 and $3 per hour. Many hotels either have their own Internet cafe or allow guests to send and receive e-mail. If your hotel doesn't provide the service and there's no Internet cafe close by, you can buy prepaid cards in 5-, 10-, and 15-hour denominations for connecting your laptop to the Web via a local phone call. Some knowledge of configuring your computer's dial-up connection is necessary, and you'll need to factor in the phone call charge if calling from a hotel. These cards are sold at many supermarkets and drugstores around the country, or contact Racsa (tel. 287-0087; www.racsa.co.cr), the state Internet monopoly, to find out where you can buy one.
Language-- Spanish is the official language of Costa Rica. Berlitz Latin American Spanish Phrasebook and Dictionary (Berlitz Guides, 2001) is probably the best phrase book to bring with you. However, in most tourist areas, you'll be surprised by how well Costa Ricans speak English.
Laundry-- Dry cleaners and laundromats -- be they full-service or self-serve -- are few and far between in Costa Rica. Hotel laundry services, which can sometimes be expensive, are far more common. For listings of laundromats, see individual city and town sections.
Liquor Laws-- Alcoholic beverages are sold every day of the week throughout the year, with the exception of the 2 days before Easter and the 2 days before and after a presidential election. The legal drinking age is 18, although it's almost never enforced. Liquor, everything from beer to hard spirits, is sold in specific liquor stores, as well as at most supermarkets and even convenience stores.
Lost & Found-- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. In Costa Rica, Visa's emergency number is tel. 0800/011-0130. American Express cardholders and traveler's check holders should call tel. 0800/012-3211. MasterCard holders should call tel. 0800/011-0184 or 636/722-7111. For other credit cards, call Credomatic tel. 295-9898.
If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/777-7777 in Costa Rica; www.westernunion.com).
Mail-- The main post office (correo) is on Calle 2 between avenidas 1 and 3 (tel. 800/900-2000 toll-free in Costa Rica, or 202-2900; www.correos.go.cr), and is open Monday through Friday from 8am to 5:30pm, and Saturday from 7:30am to noon. At press time, it cost 120 colones (26¢) to mail a postcard or letter to the United States, and 140 colones (28¢) to Europe. Given the Costa Rican postal service's track record, I recommend paying an extra 430 colones (94¢) to have anything of any value certified. Better yet, use an international courier service or wait until you get home to post it. DHL, on Paseo Colón between calles 30 and 32 (tel. 209-6000; www.dhl.com); EMS Courier, with desks at the principal metropolitan post offices (tel. 800/900-2000, or 202-2900); FedEx, which is based in Heredia but will arrange pickup anywhere in the metropolitan area (tel. 0800/052-1090; www.fedex.com); and United Parcel Service, in Pavas (tel. 290-2828; www.ups.com), all operate in Costa Rica. Note: Despite what you might be told, packages sent overnight to U.S. addresses tend to take 3 to 4 days to reach their destination.
A post office is called a correo in Spanish. You can get stamps at the post office and at some gift shops in large hotels.
If you're sending mail to Costa Rica, it generally takes between 10 and 14 days to reach San José, although it can take as much as a month to get to the more remote corners of the country. Plan ahead. Also note that many hotels and ecolodges have mailing addresses in the United States. Always use these addresses when writing from North America or Europe. Never send cash, checks, or valuables through the Costa Rican mail system.
Maps-- The Costa Rican Tourist Board (tel. 800/343-6332; www.visitcostarica.com) can usually provide you with decent maps of both Costa Rica and San José.
Newspapers & Magazines-- There are six Spanish-language dailies in Costa Rica and one English-language weekly, the Tico Times. In addition, you can get Time, Newsweek, and several U.S. newspapers at some hotel gift shops and a few of the bookstores in San José. If you understand Spanish, La Nación is the paper of record. Its "Viva" and "Tiempo Libre" sections list what's going on in the world of music, theater, dance, and more.
Passports-- For Residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.
For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).
For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.
For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a €12 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/272-525) or at most main post offices.
For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.
For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.
Police-- In most cases, dial tel. 911 for the police, and you should be able to get someone who speaks English on the line. Other numbers for the Judicial Police are tel. 222-1365 and 221-5337. The numbers for the Traffic Police (Policía de Tránsito) are tel. 222-9330 and 222-9245.
Radio & TV-- There are about 10 local TV channels; cable and satellite TV from the United States are also common. There are scores of radio stations on the AM and FM dials. In San José, 107.5 FM is my favorite English-language station, with a wide range of musical programming, as well as news and some talk shows.
Restrooms-- These are known as sanitarios, servicios sanitarios, or baños. They are marked damas (women) and hombres or caballeros (men). Public restrooms are hard to come by. You will almost never find a public restroom in a city park or downtown area. There are usually public restrooms at most national-park entrances, and much less frequently inside the national park. (There are usually plenty of trees and bushes.) In the towns and cities, it gets much trickier. One must count on the generosity of some hotel or restaurant. Same goes for most beaches. However, most restaurants, and, to a lesser degree, hotels, will let you use their facilities, especially if you buy a soft drink or something. Bus and gas stations often have restrooms, but many of these are pretty grim.
Safety-- Although most of Costa Rica is safe, crime has become much more common in recent years. San José is known for its pickpockets, so never carry a wallet in your back pocket. A woman should keep a tight grip on her purse. (Keep it tucked under your arm.) Thieves also target gold chains, cameras and video cameras, prominent jewelry, and nice sunglasses. Be sure not to leave valuables in your hotel room. Don't park a car on the street in Costa Rica, especially in San José; there are plenty of public parking lots around the city.
Rental cars generally stick out, and they are easily spotted by thieves. Don't ever leave anything of value in a car parked on the street, not even for a moment. Also be wary of solicitous strangers who stop to help you change a tire or bring you to a service station. Although most are truly good Samaritans, there have been reports of thieves preying on roadside breakdowns. Public intercity buses are also frequent targets of stealthy thieves. Never check your bags into the hold of a bus if you can avoid it. If this can't be avoided, keep your eye on what leaves the hold. If you put your bags in an overhead rack, be sure you can see the bags at all times. Try not to fall asleep.
Smoking-- While not as bad as most of Europe, a large number of Costa Ricans smoke, and public smoking regulations and smoke-free zones have yet to take hold. Restaurants are required by law to have no-smoking areas, but enforcement is often lax, air-circulation poor, and the separating almost non-existent. Bars, on the whole, are often very smoke-filled in Costa Rica.
Taxes-- All hotels charge 16.3% tax. Restaurants charge 13% tax and also add on a 10% service charge, for a total of 23% more on your bill.
There is a $26 departure tax for all visitors leaving by air. At press time there was talk of streamlining the process and including this tax in the ticket purchase price. Until that happens, the departure tax must be purchased at branches of the Banco Crédito Agrícola de Cartago (BCAC), which has an office in the main terminal at the airport (daily 4am-8pm). The tax can be paid in advance, which is sometimes recommended as the line at the airport can be slow moving. BCAC has numerous branches around San José and in some of the major tourist towns. The principal office in San José is at Avenida 4, between Calle Central and Calle 2, on the west side of the Parque Central (tel. 212-7000; www.bancreditocr.com for other branch locations). There's a branch at the Tobías Bolaños International Airport in Pavas. If you're flying on Nature Air you will use this airport, and it's a good idea to buy the exit tax here, as there are almost never any lines. Not all branches are set up to sell the tax yet, so check in advance. Finally, some local travel agencies have been purchasing the departure tax for tourists. You must give them authorization, as well as your passport number, and pay a small service fee.
Taxis-- Taxis are common and inexpensive in San José but are harder to find and more expensive in rural areas. In San José, taxis are supposed to charge metered fares. Outside the city and on longer rides, be sure to agree on a price beforehand.
Telephone & Fax-- Costa Rica has an excellent phone system, with a dial tone similar to that heard in the United States.
A phone call within Costa Rica costs around 10 colones (3¢) per minute. Pay phones take either a calling card or 5-, 10-, or 20-colón coins. Calling cards are becoming more prominent, and coin-operated phones are getting harder to find. You can purchase calling cards in a host of gift shops and pharmacies. However, there are several competing calling-card companies, and certain cards work only with certain phones. CHIP calling cards work with a computer chip and just slide into specific phones, although these phones aren't widely available. A better bet are the 197 and 199 calling cards, which are sold in varying denominations. These have a scratch-off PIN and can be used from any phone in the country. Generally, the 197 cards are sold in smaller denominations and are used for local calling, while the 199 cards are deemed international and are easier to find in larger denominations. Either card can be used to make any call, however, provided that the card can cover the costs. Another perk of the 199 cards is the fact that you can get the instructions in English. For local calls, it is often easiest to call from your hotel, although you will likely be charged around 150 to 300 colones (32¢-63¢) per call.
You can make international phone calls, as well as send faxes, from the ICE office, Avenida 2 between calles 1 and 3, in San José (tel. 255-0444). The office is open daily from 7am to 10pm. Faxes cost around $1.50 per page to the United States. (Many hotels also offer the same service for a fee.) Radiográfica (tel. 287-0087), at Calle 1 and Avenida 5 in San José, also has fax service.
Note: Numbers beginning with 0800 and 800 within Costa Rica are toll-free, but calling an 800 number in the States from Costa Rica is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.
Time Zone-- Costa Rica is on Central Standard Time (same as Chicago and St. Louis), 6 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time. Costa Rica does not use daylight saving time, so the time difference is an additional hour April through October.
Tipping-- Tipping is not necessary in restaurants, where a 10% service charge is always added to your bill (along with a 13% tax). If service was particularly good, you can leave a little at your own discretion, but it's not mandatory. Porters and bellhops get around 75¢ per bag. You don't need to tip a taxi driver unless the service has been superior; a tip is not usually expected.
Useful Phone Numbers-- For directory assistance, call tel. 113; for international directory assistance, call tel. 124; and for the exact time (in Spanish), call tel. 112.
U.S. Dept. of State Travel Advisory: tel. 202/647-5225 (manned 24 hr.)
U.S. Passport Agency: tel. 202/647-0518
U.S. Centers for Disease Control International Traveler's Hot Line: tel. 404/332-4559
Water-- Although the water in San José is generally safe to drink, water quality varies outside the city. Because many travelers have tender digestive tracts, I recommend playing it safe and sticking to bottled drinks as much as possible. Also avoid ice.